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Discuss Could someone help me ID this flush? in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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My house has consistently been plagued by leaky dual action cisterns since I bought it. The fact that the cisterns are firmly hidden away behind plasterboard walls with nothing but a small access hole where the faceplate of the cistern is located has never helped. I have finally taken the plunge and attempt a replacement of the offending flush valve element. At the same time I have elected to cut out part of the plasterboard wall and replace it with a service panel that can be unscrewed at any time so I can work without being a contortionist and with adequate light.

There is just one problem - the actual cistern unit appears to be an integral thing with the outlet pipe molded in - which means that I do not have the option of finding a good universal flush valve replacement and screwing it in. The builders clearly saved where they could - the electrical and plumbing fixtures are all unknown generic Polish brands with names I cannot find on the Internet. The flushes, for instance, just bear the name Zako Element System which appears to be a German company. However, I cannot find any replacement parts on trusty Amazon that are branded Zako.

The flush I have appears to be a close imitation of the Geberit Up 320 system but I cannot be sure. The flush itself fits in with a twist-n-click action. I'd really be grateful to anyone who might be able to help me ID this flush and to locate a compatible replacementt flush valve. I have attached several photos which I hope will make th e process easier
mystery-concealed-flush.jpg
 
You’re onto a loser there, just bite the bullet and replace the cistern with a decent well supported make that is readily available.
I’d suggest geberit , but I’m assuming the idiots can sort out brexit properly....
 
Thank you. I have been toying with the idea of just replacing the whole damn thing. I feel a bit hesitant - never done this before. I have removed and reinstalled the urinal in my house a few times since it has a tendency to get clogged with uric acid crystals that simply cannot be removed any way than changing the whole syphon unit.

I assume that the toilet bowl is attached in the same way? i.e., you just slide it in place with a well aligned inlet/outlet pipe? So if I remove the bowl, remove the cistern, find and install a new replacement, install a pipe that is the just the right length the bowl will slide back into place?

The toilet bowl is a wall hanging affair - I see two decorative plastic caps that almost certainly hide hex nuts that I will have to undo, after removing the silicone rubber sealant, and slide the bowl off the wall.

Question - will I be able to reuse the current metal frame and simply replace the cistern or will I end up having to get a new metal frame too? - I am well upto drilling and tapping a few M4/M6 holes if required in order to adapt the existant frame.
 
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You could try emailing to here: Parts for Toilet,Float Valves,Toilet Spares uk,spare parts cistern,Toilet spare parts,Toilet parts, diaphragms, flushing valves - toiletspares.co.uk - https://www.toiletspares.co.uk/ as it’s not one I’ve seen before. If you’re struggling altogether, why not replace the cistern, or the valve and flush pipe?
Just the flush pipe is not an option. I had hoped it would be and had even bought a decent replacement valve. However, once I removed the plasterboard I discovered that the pipe is integrated into the cistern body - one single molded unit so I cannot unscrew the pipe and slide in a better replacement valve. Not unless I cut and patch but in that case it is probably easier to just change the whole damn thing
 
Thanks! A few additional questions

  1. Is the inlet pipe hole on the toilet bowl a standard diameter or does each manufacturer have their own size?
  2. To make life easier I am toying with the idea of using a flexible pipe to connect the bowl to the cistern. Will this work?
  3. Any other insider tips to bear in mind while doing the whole operation?
 
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1. Yes, standard size. These things are not precise, particularly with some pans, but the finned connector will take care of any discrepancies. Sometimes one type of connector will work better than others - trial and error I’m afraid.

2. No don’t use a flexible pipe. You only have to cut a rigid pipe to the correct length and height, and there’s a bit of leeway with insertion depths (ooo matron). A flexible pipe could sag later and that would be a big problem, or sag slightly and pull out of one end etc.

3. Fix everything well, you don’t want any movement as this always leads to leaks.
Test and use the toilet for a few days before you box it all in again.
Consider leaving access for future maintenance/inspection ie a removable panel.
Before you fit the cistern familiarise yourself with how to dismantle and remove the various parts so when maintenance is necessary you are not trying it for the first time through the little flush plate hole. ( or leave that access panel)
 
1. Yes, standard size. These things are not precise, particularly with some pans, but the finned connector will take care of any discrepancies. Sometimes one type of connector will work better than others - trial and error I’m afraid.

2. No don’t use a flexible pipe. You only have to cut a rigid pipe to the correct length and height, and there’s a bit of leeway with insertion depths (ooo matron). A flexible pipe could sag later and that would be a big problem, or sag slightly and pull out of one end etc.

3. Fix everything well, you don’t want any movement as this always leads to leaks.
Test and use the toilet for a few days before you box it all in again.
Consider leaving access for future maintenance/inspection ie a removable panel.
Before you fit the cistern familiarise yourself with how to dismantle and remove the various parts so when maintenance is necessary you are not trying it for the first time through the little flush plate hole. ( or leave that access panel)
Thanks! Much appreciated
 

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