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Discuss Combi boiler losing pressure - No leaks, many new parts, but still... in the UK Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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I'll pop this into the general advice forum as it seems the most active, but mods - feel free to move if there's somewhere more appropriate. Thank you!

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Apologies, but yet another "boiler losing pressure" thread - I've read many others, but am no closer...

Not my boiler (parents), so consider me a proxy. I'm also by no means a heating engineer: I'm just looking for pointers, as my folks are now caught firmly in a circle of finger-pointing, as nobody will take responsibility, it's all someone else's fault, and they're just going around in circles.

~5+ year old Ideal Vogue C32 combi boiler, still under warranty, regularly serviced. Losing pressure over hours (more often) to days (rarely) - mostly overnight, when cold. Has been doing this for ~3 months; boiler has never been 100% reliable, and would sometimes "die" if left unattended for a couple of weeks, especially in cold weather (no further details on the nature of this, merely that it couldn't be relied upon to e.g. keep frost at bay).

No signs of any leaks. No signs of any water egress anywhere (and this has been going on for months, so there's a good chunk of water missing - imagine 50 to 100 filling cycles). No water coming out of the external pipework (plastic bag over the end, dry). No plasterboard staining or damage. No corrosion on any valves. No wet grout where pipes go through screed in kitchen. No signs of damp around or below the boiler.

On manufacturer's advice, boiler has been isolated and repressurised. Still loses pressure. Suggests boiler at fault.

PRV has been changed. Heat exchanger has been changed. Diverter cartridge has been changed. No improvement - getting worse, if anything.

Heating side has been isolated and pressure tested, and also tracer gas used - no leaks found. Thermal imaging shows no leaks or hot spots in the pipework. Reopening system showed tracer gas coming out of boiler flue.

On occasions, pressure appears to increase by ~0.25 bar for a brief period before dropping back. This is likely to be when the heating is on, though, so may be "normal".

Thoughts? What can it be except the boiler, given the isolation test? And, if not the PRV or heat exchanger, what else? Expansion vessel? Dodgy pump, perhaps sticking and causing the PRV to vent (but where's the water gone?)? Fairy folk sneaking in for a drink at midnight? Given the repeated refilling of the system, and the lack of any water damage, I'd have assume that the water is evaporating, which still points a finger at the heat exchanger, but I'm at the end of my knowledge now.

Genuine thanks in advance for any thoughts, as this is causing significant grief for an elderly couple...
 
Get ideal out to sort the boiler issue out as it’s under warranty
 
It was Ideal who changed these parts under warranty. They now won't do any more, as it's clearly a system problem - despite them asking for the isolation test which suggests that it's still a fault with the boiler. That's the circular argument.

Heating system was surveyed and tested for leaks under house insurance, but they've also washed their hands on it as it's clearly a boiler problem...

As for the heat, Ideal have simply said they've "changed the heat exchanger", so I can't say if it's a two-part system or what specifically they've swapped out - they kind of imply that it's a single stainless steel, not-prone-to-leaking exchanger, and there was no fault found.
 
I would ask for a senior engineer from ideal as it’s a boiler fault as the valves are shut and still loose pressures

You could get two lever valves fitted below the boiler on the flow and return to prove the valves are 100% shut

You need to play hard ball with ideal if there not coming to fix you will contact a solicitor and will be going down the legal route as it’s still under warranty and you want the boiler replaced as it’s a lemon
 
Thanks for the thoughts, guys - yes, legal route is very much an option, although "not being cold" is the primary goal at this stage.

Food colouring - presumably a cracked heat exchanger (or dodgy diverter) would allow water to leak across from heating to hot water, yes? So, any colouring would emerge from and show at the tap? Worth a try, thanks. It might also make any leaks more visible... sadly, I don't have any Fluorescein to hand!

Isolating/disconnecting and lever valves - yes, I'd thought that - effectively, a bypass pipe or "heating system of a metre of copper" that physically disconnects the entirety of the heating would be definitive.

Most likely explanation remains the wet components of the boiler, from what I understand. Could it be anything else? Could a failed non-return valve somehow leak back into the (pressurised) cold water feed, or a sticking pump, or... anything? Again, there's a lot of water going astray somewhere, you can't hide that easily: even if it's only a few hundred ml on each refill, you're looking at a couple of litres a week for three months.
 
What is the significance of the tracer gas coming out the flue?

"Heating side has been isolated and pressure tested, and also tracer gas used - no leaks found. Thermal imaging shows no leaks or hot spots in the pipework. Reopening system showed tracer gas coming out of boiler flue."
 
What is the significance of the tracer gas coming out the flue?

"Heating side has been isolated and pressure tested, and also tracer gas used - no leaks found. Thermal imaging shows no leaks or hot spots in the pipework. Reopening system showed tracer gas coming out of boiler flue."
I can't say - only that any plumber who heard about it seemed to go into a mild panic and say "gas? you need to contact the gas board!" (forgetting both that "the gas board" hasn't existed forever, and that we're talking about tracer gas, not the combustible stuff).

I suspect that it indicates a heat exchanger leak, as the gas is getting between the sealed, pressurised wet heating side and the burners/exhaust vent. If you replace the tracer with water, I'm presuming you wouldn't expect it to turn into steam and escape from the flue, after all, but I don't pretend to be an expert.
 
As per my response to the duplicate thread, also keep an eye on how much is coming out of the condensate.
Thanks - apologies, I didn't know I'd created a duplicate (d'oh).

We've previously hung a bag over what I believe to be the condensate pipe (external) and it didn't collect any drips at all, but that's something I want to do very deliberately to make sure - just in case it's venting as vapour.
 
We've previously hung a bag over what I believe to be the condensate pipe (external) and it didn't collect any drips at all, but that's something I want to do very deliberately to make sure - just in case it's venting as vapour.
Can you show a photo of the pipe outside? You have a safety discharge pipe (usually copper) and a condensate pipe (usually pvc).
 
Condensate measurement is obviously paramount but if it proves inconclusive would suggest to get your own person in. As suggested above, disconnect and fit two lever valves to the boiler flow/return. I would then suggest to note the expansion volume, precharge it to exactly 1.0bar anf fill to 2.5bar, then with both Lever valves shut monitor the boiler pressure. Also ensure boiler is vented of air before test.
Assuming a 8L E.vessel then when (if) the boiler pressure falls to 2.0bar the water loss is exactly 0.76L, when it falls to 1.5bar the water loss will be a further 1.07L, total of 1.83L, and when it falls to 1.0bar a further 1.6L it will be lost to a total of 3.43L in falling from 2.5bar to 1.0bar. It doesn't matter whether the condensate loss confirms this or not, you have the proof (or not) that the boiler has lost 3.43L, their problem to fix, not yours.
 
Again, ongoing thanks. I'll have to get to my parents' house to see if it's the right pipe that's been checked - that is new news to me that there are two, so that's genuinely useful (and, likewise, steps to test further).

I'll continue to progress getting someone in... I didn't have much luck when I 'phoned around about a suspected system leak, but maybe there's more interest in the boiler side.
 

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