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Hi all

As the title suggests my cistern is not refilling after flushing; I noticed a fitting detached which could be the issue (see image)? Or could it be something else?

Thanks
 

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that fitting possibly holds the button press onto the cistern lid, if th ecistern isnt filling ten its down to either water turned off to toilet or the fill valve being stuckthats the blue thing with the arm and tube coming out of it
 
Try giving the float on the arm a little gentle tap with finger. Looks like it has stuck at top and not gone down with water during flush. Easy swap out. Get a new one with a brass thread
 
This type of float sits in a protective cup to prevent it from touching the cistern wall or another component and jamming it. However I have on occasion found a small piece of debris between the float and its protective cup which causes it to jam. As DuncanM says, give it a poke and see if you can get it moving again. Might just be a bit of crud in there stopping it.
 
Having just has another look the float is moving freely. The cistern has refilled having left it for 2 days; I can see a very small trickle of water coming from the top of the fill valve which would suggest this needs cleaning out? Should the water be coming from the top of this? Thanks in advance.
 
Unfortunately I do not recognise the maker of the inlet valve you have there but it would most likely be a bottom fill type where the water comes out of the stem, just after it enters the cistern. I have seen some valves operating normally with small amounts of water issuing from the top end but your valve sounds mostly blocked or a seal/washer has failed.

If you can cope with flushing your toilet with a large container of water, I'd wait and see if anyone here can recognise the brand of valve you have and advise on whether it is serviceable.

Really though I think it's time for a new inlet valve. I would suggest a Fluidmaster Pro 45B if you need to replace. As I said, if you can cope a little while longer one of the good folks here might know your current valve and serviceability so you could wait.

Personally, when something like this plays up I replace. We can guide you through that if you need to do so. It's not too difficult when you know what to do. Alternatively you can of course call a local plumber. I'd wait a bit and see what people say here for now.
 
I took the diaphragm out and gave it all a good clean but still is not filling. Before I fit a new one; I have noticed the bathroom tap and shower have an increased pressure. Could this mean the problem to be something else? Thanks
 
I took the diaphragm out and gave it all a good clean but still is not filling. Before I fit a new one; I have noticed the bathroom tap and shower have an increased pressure. Could this mean the problem to be something else? Thanks

I would not expect the removal or isolation of a cistern fill valve to have any effect on the rest of the system pressure or flow wise so that's a bit strange to me. Depending upon where you isolated the water to enable working on the fill valve, I can only suggest that upon reopening the isolating valve you either opened it further than it was before or it had some bit of debris in it restricting the flow and you have dislodged it but that is only speculation on my part.

As you have probably worked out for yourself, it's time to fit a new bottom entry inlet valve. Purchase a Fluidmaster Pro 45B (that's B for brass shank) and we can advise on how to fit it if you require any help or advice.
 
We have this type of valve on our works toilet and it is always sticking. The blue piston does not drop when the cistern empties as it sticks in its guide thats surrounds it. Lifting the lid and giving a gentle prod on the lever normally does the trick. We are waiting for a plumber to replace it. I could do it myself, but the company wants a plumber to do it.
 
I've seen that valve a few times, they come supplied with cheap unbranded toilets (probably chinese imports), never seen one for sale on its own.
You say you cleaned the diaphragm, try holding it up to a light to see if there's a hole in it, a hole in the diaphragm, even a tiny one will stop it from working or turn the refill into a trickle.
You may be lucky and it has a standard diaphragm that can be easily sourced, but I'd be looking to change the valve for a Fluidmaster as suggested multiple times above, that way you're future proofing it and making any maintenance or repairs down the line easy.
 

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