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Discuss Changing old stop tap in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Jennie

Gas Engineer
Messages
283
Hi all,

Just wondering how you'd go about replacing this stop tap. It's not shutting off properly. It's on black poly/steel pipe, under the boards by the front door. Some words of experience would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Jennie
IMG_1282.JPG
 
Is that a tee or coupling also is before that still black poly ?
 
It's a coupling. I'm pretty sure it was black poly and both ends, coupled on to steel pipe. But surely the electrician wouldn't have put an earth bond onto plastic pipe???
 
Philmac utc to copper then female iron to go back onto the steel
 
You will need to turn off the utility stop outside. It may be a water meter which is easy but if its older then you will need the right key. Some say the utility dont like you doing this I have never had hassle even when I have had a gusher, well two in one week once. Rob Foster aka
centralheatking
 
Any identification on nuts to stopcock? Eg 22mm? If so turn off boundary stopcock, remove stopcock, fit new 22mm stopcock with ptfe on olives and tighten up, turn on boundary stopcock. Some say a little prayer to leak gods to make sure they don’t get one ;)
 
I guess I'll just have to get stuck in, and take it as it comes. If needs be, I can put the old one back on while I figure it out. And I regularly pray to the plumbing gods. :)
 
Hi all,

Just wondering how you'd go about replacing this stop tap. It's not shutting off properly. It's on black poly/steel pipe, under the boards by the front door. Some words of experience would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Jennie
View attachment 39001
Look Jennie the whole thing in your picture is a mess of odd ball conections. Turn it off in the road. cut out all the carp
and put it together properly.
If thats lead on the r/h side put lead lock on then copper then stop tap and then join into the domestic copper. Test ..
centralheatking
 
The coupling is either a VJ junior or more likely a George Fisher multi fit coupling the being used as a for runner of the LeadLoc's now available. The Stop valve is a more modern type with that style of handle. So you should be OK with new 1/2" LeadLoc to 22mm copper tube & replace the stop valve.
I wouldn't touch the old coupling the joints are made with a cone / tapered rubber with an slip ring in between the nut, a bit like a McAlpine Multi fit couple used on wastes.
 
I would turn off in street and just change the guts, if having removed them the seat looks ok.
Its a put new component in world in now, with the price of labour and the on cost of call backs I would replace all of it. The cost of each call to BG is £68.00 go back twice or 3x there is no money left in the job. and they are a big outfit with economies of scale...we all should remember this and charge more and get our jobs right 1st time ish..the price of time petrol and derv and the lost opportunity cost can kill a small business. You can run around like a headless chicken turnover good money but make little profit and go bust.
centralheatking
 
I agree in the above sentiments Rob, however with a stop tap of solid brass - if in good nick, it is only the guts that “do” anything so why risk disturbing all the other joints trying to spring in a new body - pointless.
I’m not alone approaching this job in this way- sometimes a bit of thought goes along way.
 

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