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Hi, i'm looking for some advice please, i have attached a picture of what i am trying to do, if it makes sense, so i am trying to connect my new upstairs toilet, to the old downstairs soil pipe, as in the picture, using 110mm pipework, with the relevant push fit connectors, which i will have to buy to complete the job, i just want to know if this is ok to do it this way?.. thank you
 

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All good except for the requirement of a vent.
Take the vent off the vertical pipe to above roof line or take one off the back of the pan fitting to above the roofline
Hay, thanks for the reply, really appreciate it, would i still add a vent? if it's the same underground soil pipe as the existing toilet, that i would be connecting to?. thanks
 
Hi, i'm looking for some advice please, i have attached a picture of what i am trying to do, if it makes sense, so i am trying to connect my new upstairs toilet, to the old downstairs soil pipe, as in the picture, using 110mm pipework, with the relevant push fit connectors, which i will have to buy to complete the job, i just want to know if this is ok to do it this way?.. thank you
Nice vertical vent pipe between the two upstairs windows 110mm maybe off set round the gutters and a bird cage on the top. Don’t go down air vent/durgo route storing trouble up. I would boss the smaller waste pipe grey into the soil and make a neat job. Centralheatking
 
Nice vertical vent pipe between the two upstairs windows 110mm maybe off set round the gutters and a bird cage on the top. Don’t go down air vent/durgo route storing trouble up. I would boss the smaller waste pipe grey into the soil and make a neat job. Centralheatking

Hay, thanks for advice, so even though the pipe i'll be connecting to, which is the old toilet pipe downstairs, is connected to vent pipe, i will have to add another one on this one to? and i have looked at them boss pipe fitting, sounds a good idea, i think that what i'll be doing, CAN I ASK? at what gradient do the pap pipe have to be coming o0ut the back of the toilet, as my pipe is coming out the right side of the pan, and going through the wall to outside. here a picture, will this angle be ok?.. i don't want to take a chance of it blocking thank you
 

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Hay, thanks for advice, so even though the pipe i'll be connecting to, which is the old toilet pipe downstairs, is connected to vent pipe, i will have to add another one on this one to? and i have looked at them boss pipe fitting, sounds a good idea, i think that what i'll be doing, CAN I ASK? at what gradient do the pap pipe have to be coming o0ut the back of the toilet, as my pipe is coming out the right side of the pan, and going through the wall to outside. here a picture, will this angle be ok?.. i don't want to take a chance of it blocking thank you
That angle is fine, too steep is as bad as too shallow. Do all the outside in black it will look dandy. I put in rodding eyes on most bends and plenty of pipe clips Centralheatking
 
That angle is fine, too steep is as bad as too shallow. Do all the outside in black it will look dandy. I put in rodding eyes on most bends and plenty of pipe clips Centralheatking

Thanks for the reply, that's good then, i was worried is was too steep, and wouldn't flush the waste, i'm going to fit this, should i use this 92.5 or 87.5 ? and i'm doing it all in black.:cool:
 

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As a side note, if you never used to have a toilet in that room, you need to inform building control or it may bite you on the bum when you come to sell the house.
Building control UK? do i contact the water company? as i think the pipes belong to them? or do i contact the council? thanks
 
Hay, thanks for the reply, really appreciate it, would i still add a vent? if it's the same underground soil pipe as the existing toilet, that i would be connecting to?. thanks
Yes,
you would.

We rarely give out wrong information regarding Plumbing.
CHK has @ 100 years of experience
Myself @ 30 years of experience.

( 20 word minimum - expanded )
 
15mm a meter upto 25mm a meter is acceptable
 
Thanks for the reply, that's good then, i was worried is was too steep, and wouldn't flush the waste, i'm going to fit this, should i use this 92.5 or 87.5 ? and i'm doing it all in black.:cool:
[/QUOT
That’s the baby and put a t with a rodding point on the black basin waste that comes out of the wall so you can rod from outside into the room it’s the proper way to do costs buttons Centralheatking
Yes,
you would.

We rarely give out wrong information regarding Plumbing.
CHK has @ 100 years of experience
Myself @ 30 years of experience.

( 20 word minimum - expanded )
Centralheatking is 62 with 42 years experience complete with wrecked body to go with my experience LOL
 
Centralheatking is 62 with 42 years experience complete with wrecked body to go with my experience LOL
Thanks for all the advice, here is my plan of what i'm going to buy for the job, can i ask, what long radius rest bend you would use? thanks
 

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Thanks for all the advice, here is my plan of what i'm going to buy for the job, can i ask, what long radius rest bend you would use? thanks
Don’t forget clips, your plan looks fine, use a tight bend second pic right hand pic long slow bends are ok underground horizantal but not for this scheme Centralheatking don’t forget the boss for the basin waste and use a t with the mini rod eye so,you can rod from outside into the room
 
Not sure on your Regs, but the vent you are proposing is a Dry Vent.
You should take the vent off the vertical section before branching off to the toilet.
 
Don’t forget clips, your plan looks fine, use a tight bend second pic right hand pic long slow bends are ok underground horizantal but not for this scheme Centralheatking don’t forget the boss for the basin waste and use a t with the mini rod eye so,you can rod from outside into the room

Thanks for looking and helping, i'l, use the tighter bend then, for the rodding access, i have bought a single socket 92.5 to add to the T branch, and then it will go straight up to the roof, and not sure if i've done right thing here, but bought a toilet sink combo, all in one, it had good reviews, just hope it works out ok, as my bathroom is 56 inches by 76 inches, so even though i would have prefered a seperate sink basin, there just isn't the room, and i found some clips, off Toolstation, £7.10 for 5, but not good reviews, fragile, i can't believe how expensive they are, that's for a pack of 5 clips, i think i'll be looking at at least two packs, not sure how far they need to be apart...
 
Thanks for looking and helping, i'l, use the tighter bend then, for the rodding access, i have bought a single socket 92.5 to add to the T branch, and then it will go straight up to the roof, and not sure if i've done right thing here, but bought a toilet sink combo, all in one, it had good reviews, just hope it works out ok, as my bathroom is 56 inches by 76 inches, so even though i would have prefered a seperate sink basin, there just isn't the room, and i found some clips, off Toolstation, £7.10 for 5, but not good reviews, fragile, i can't believe how expensive they are, that's for a pack of 5 clips, i think i'll be looking at at least two packs, not sure how far they need to be apart...
1 m apart is a proper job
 
1 m apart is a proper job
Thanks Dude, Legend, thanks for the help it makes life so much easier.
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Centralheatking is 62 with 42 years experience complete with wrecked body to go with my experience LOL
Lol, I can well imagine, that's a lot of civil work, digging for a living, takes its toll in the end, proper graft, well all i can say is a big thanks, you've helped me no ends, you're very easy to understand, with your explanations, keeping it simple, i may be back with one or two more questions, really appreciate your help..
 
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Thanks Dude, Legend, thanks for the help it makes life so much easier.
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Lol, I can well imagine, that's a lot of civil work, digging for a living, takes its toll in the end, proper graft, well all i can say is a big thanks, you've helped me no ends, you're very easy to understand, with your explanations, keeping it simple, i may be back with one or two more questions, really appreciate your help..
I never dug for a living our company Frank Chris and I had average 50+ fellas 1980, 1990 - 2005 when I launched my plumbing and heating design company. I have instructed countless fellas on HVAC and Plumbing Heating and Sanitary I only did the nice bits. I did lecky and water/heating, Drains. Fat Frank construction/joinery Chris did planning and building regs we had a ball in Somerset and Wiltshire in those days bought property as well then we sold up. One went to Cornwall, Two retired and opened a designer rad shop in Bath. I drifted home to Merseyside after my 1st divorce of 2 and despite planning to retire carried on. No problem helping as I have made all the mistakes already I am a mine of info about getting rid of wives aswell !
Centralheatking
 
I never dug for a living our company Frank Chris and I had average 50+ fellas 1980, 1990 - 2005 when I launched my plumbing and heating design company. I have instructed countless fellas on HVAC and Plumbing Heating and Sanitary I only did the nice bits. I did lecky and water/heating, Drains. Fat Frank construction/joinery Chris did planning and building regs we had a ball in Somerset and Wiltshire in those days bought property as well then we sold up. One went to Cornwall, Two retired and opened a designer rad shop in Bath. I drifted home to Merseyside after my 1st divorce of 2 and despite planning to retire carried on. No problem helping as I have made all the mistakes already I am a mine of info about getting rid of wives as well !
Centralheatking

Ah thought you knackered from digging, lol, it takes its toll, if you can get it easy, take it, sounds like you had a good business there, 50 plus employees, plenty of work coming in, property always a thing to venture into, at anytime, i remember the Tory recession of the 90's, i know a guy who was buying property from halifax and Bristol and west for £6000 a pop, 3 bed properties, he sold his building company, and had 80k left, wish i had money back then, he made a killing, and i've been divorced once myself, you could of got rid of mine, ;) maybe a fly over, or in some foundations haha and it's always hard to give something up you've done your whole life, i used to have my own mobile phone shop, was there for 9 years, it wasn't the most profitable, right in the heart of St Pauls Bristol, done that for 9 years, now i'm on the Railway, lookout, and soon to be MOD5, when the work comes back.
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Ah thought you knackered from digging, lol, it takes its toll, if you can get it easy, take it, sounds like you had a good business there, 50 plus employees, plenty of work coming in, property always a thing to venture into, at anytime, i remember the Tory recession of the 90's, i know a guy who was buying property from halifax and Bristol and west for £6000 a pop, 3 bed properties, he sold his building company, and had 80k left, wish i had money back then, he made a killing, and i've been divorced once myself, you could of got rid of mine, ;) maybe a fly over, or in some foundations haha and it's always hard to give something up you've done your whole life, i used to have my own mobile phone shop, was there for 9 years, it wasn't the most profitable, right in the heart of St Pauls Bristol, done that for 9 years, now i'm on the Railway, lookout, and soon to be MOD5, when the work comes back.
Hi Mate, just wondering if i can ask for a little more help and advice, i contacted Bristol city council building regs, told them of my intentions, i had to fill out an online form, they just got back to today, this is what they wrote, i thought if you were private, owned your own home, they couldn't stop you from doing anything, pretty much, looks like i was wrong....

I have concluded that your application for the proposed works description of “Adding a toilet to the already existing upstairs bathroom, and removing the old toilet downstairs in the Kitchen space” is controllable works and as a result will require a valid building regulations application to undertaken the works. You can take formal confirmation from this email that the proposed works are not exempt. It should be noted that the removal of a downstairs toilet with no provision for a lavatory on the ground floor is not permitted under building regulations.

I rang them, and he said, i cannot remove my downstairs toilet, incase somebody disabled moved into to once i sell up, i am a bit annoyed to say the least, so looks like i'll have to use a Y connector, if you wouldn't mind, can i do a diagram and put in on here for a little more?. many thanks
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As i said, the local council has decided i cannot remove my downstairs toilet, so have to work something else out, can somebody please have a look, and see if this will be ok to do? i'm not sure if you can use a y connector in this way, or shore of where to cut the clay pipe? closer or further away, or what type of fitting to use if i can use the y this way, to get the angle to the wall, then the drainpipe??. many thanks
 

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That must be really annoying. I didn't think they would be able to make you keep a ground floor toilet unless the building was pre-designated as equipped for disabled. Your plan is to move the toilet upstairs not up a tree...
Surely someone who can't get upstairs wouldn't buy a 2 storey house unless they planned on a stair lift.
Madness...
 
That must be really annoying. I didn't think they would be able to make you keep a ground floor toilet unless the building was pre-designated as equipped for disabled. Your plan is to move the toilet upstairs not up a tree...
Surely someone who can't get upstairs wouldn't buy a 2 storey house unless they planned on a stair lift.
Madness...

That's exactly what i thought, i thought once you bought your house, you could what you wanted within reason, and it hasn't been pre designated, it ex council house? so not sure not entirely what to do, he's tipped my plans upside down, it mean i have to join the soil pipe connection a different way, after having it all planned out, it's a bit annoying, i'm thinking of asking a law company, but shouldn't have to, i asked him if this was law, he said it's been law for 8 years, but just trickled down?? in the email. it does say he's a trainee, "
Larry Axxxxx ACABE
Trainee Building Control Surveyor
Building Regulations and Standards
Development Management - Growth & Regeneration "

he said that i wouldn't need planning to connect the old toilet to the existing pipe either, and said that i can use the existing waste stack pipe for both toilets without any problems occurring, he's thrown it all in to a bit of doubt, and i am unsure how to proceed, i'm going to connect my pipework up tomorrow, and the main connection until i'm 100% sure, what i can and can't do. thanks for the reply
 
That's exactly what i thought, i thought once you bought your house, you could what you wanted within reason, and it hasn't been pre designated, it ex council house? so not sure not entirely what to do, he's tipped my plans upside down, it mean i have to join the soil pipe connection a different way, after having it all planned out, it's a bit annoying, i'm thinking of asking a law company, but shouldn't have to, i asked him if this was law, he said it's been law for 8 years, but just trickled down?? in the email. it does say he's a trainee, "
Larry Axxxxx ACABE
Trainee Building Control Surveyor
Building Regulations and Standards
Development Management - Growth & Regeneration "

he said that i wouldn't need planning to connect the old toilet to the existing pipe either, and said that i can use the existing waste stack pipe for both toilets without any problems occurring, he's thrown it all in to a bit of doubt, and i am unsure how to proceed, i'm going to connect my pipework up tomorrow, and the main connection until i'm 100% sure, what i can and can't do. thanks for the reply
I would just go for it I try to keep out of the way of building control, your job is straight fwds. If ever you want to sell the house nobody will give it a second glance just leave both bogs in it will increase your house value Centralheatking
 
I would just go for it I try to keep out of the way of building control, your job is straight fwds. If ever you want to sell the house nobody will give it a second glance just leave both bogs in it will increase your house value Centralheatking

Thanks, i'll just get on with, get it done, i got my pipe work from Screwfix, and all my bends, just not sure about the y connection, as had all the other details in my mind to do the job, can i ask if the way i was going to do will work? can i use a y like that? up that way, and can i use the geberit style one, instead of the more common orange underground fitting, as this Geberit one has no sockets, that will make it easier for rubber coupling connectors to go on to it, and should i put the y near the front of the pipe? or in the middle?. sorry about all the question, many thanks
 
Not familiar with Geberit fittings, I'd stick to tried and tested orange fittings, are geberit compatible with other brands? Will you have to use geberit stuff from the inspection chamber all the way to both toilets?
Why do you need rubber couplings?
If it was me and there was no scope to replace the inspection chamber, I'd use an orange 'Y' piece to tap in as close to the inspection chamber as possible, then straight pipe (with a long radius 45 if needed) to a long radius 90 up to the new soil and vent that would have a swept 'T' where the soil from the new toilet would attach.
You'd also need air admittance for the downstairs toilet, either another roof line vent or an AAV, the important part for me though is to have separate runs for each toilet as much as possible. You don't want a blockage turning your downstairs loo into a bespoke chocolate and sweetcorn fountain 🤮
I base this on common sense, experience and regs - in that order :)
I don't do a lot of drains stuff, hopefully someone with more experience than me will be along to either agree or explain why that isn't the way to go.
 
Not familiar with Geberit fittings, I'd stick to tried and tested orange fittings, are geberit compatible with other brands? Will you have to use geberit stuff from the inspection chamber all the way to both toilets?
Why do you need rubber couplings?
If it was me and there was no scope to replace the inspection chamber, I'd use an orange 'Y' piece to tap in as close to the inspection chamber as possible, then straight pipe (with a long radius 45 if needed) to a long radius 90 up to the new soil and vent that would have a swept 'T' where the soil from the new toilet would attach.
You'd also need air admittance for the downstairs toilet, either another roof line vent or an AAV, the important part for me though is to have separate runs for each toilet as much as possible. You don't want a blockage turning your downstairs loo into a bespoke chocolate and sweetcorn fountain 🤮
I base this on common sense, experience and regs - in that order :)
I don't do a lot of drains stuff, hopefully someone with more experience than me will be along to either agree or explain why that isn't the way to go.
Hi JCplumb, thanks for the reply, i was going to use the Geberit fitting, as it has no socket, and then when i cut the Clay pipe, and i can use rubber coupling to attach to each end to the middle of the pipe, if there are sockets on the ends, i'm sure you can't use rubber couplings, which seems the easiest way to fit it? and thus fit the Y into place, i have spoken to my local council, and the guy i spoke to said, that i can join the new to existing underground waste, and wouldn't need another waste vent adding to the new stuff, i asked if he knew what he was talking about, and he said yes, so obviously i'm going to do that, it save me time and money, i'm not totally sure where to add the Y and if i don't use a socketless Y how can i join this Y adequality? i'd appreciate any advice. i have just finished the outside pipe work today, need a few little things doing, and i'm ready to do the main connection.
 

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Aren't those Geberit fittings for fusion welding?

I really don't have a clue, i was thinking if it is suitable for underground use, then you can just put a rubber coupling adapter on the end.
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Can anybody tell me if this can done using these fitting like? or try to use straight piece of pipe with bends, thanks
 

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When coming from upstairs the soil needs a long radius bend there, those fittings in that configuration would be begging for blockages.
Example of a long radius bend.
You need your Y piece as close to the inspection chamber as possible(presuming there is no unused connection into the chamber you can use) and it should be almost horizontal (slight drop on straight and branch) then that needs to connect to the long radius 90 at the bottom of your new soil pipe using another length of soil, again with a slight drop(2.5 degrees iirc).
You may need to replace a section of the clay pipe with plastic and use a coupling that can 'slip' to allow you to have the wiggle room to push the pipe into the sockets.
Example of a transition coupling that can be used as a slip coupling on the smaller diameter PVCu pipe.
Just done a diagram of what I propose for clarity:
C = existing clay pipe
P = new plastic pipe
PB = plastic branch
LRB = long radius bend
IC = inspection chamber
TC = transition coupling
proposed.png
 
When coming from upstairs the soil needs a long radius bend there, those fittings in that configuration would be begging for blockages.
Example of a long radius bend.
You need your Y piece as close to the inspection chamber as possible(presuming there is no unused connection into the chamber you can use) and it should be almost horizontal (slight drop on straight and branch) then that needs to connect to the long radius 90 at the bottom of your new soil pipe using another length of soil, again with a slight drop(2.5 degrees iirc).
You may need to replace a section of the clay pipe with plastic and use a coupling that can 'slip' to allow you to have the wiggle room to push the pipe into the sockets.
Example of a transition coupling that can be used as a slip coupling on the smaller diameter PVCu pipe.
Just done a diagram of what I propose for clarity:
C = existing clay pipe
P = new plastic pipe
PB = plastic branch
LRB = long radius bend
IC = inspection chamber
TC = transition coupling
View attachment 43531

Hi JCplumb, thanks for the reply i really appreciate it, i have done another diagram, maybe that will help with my explanations, and maybe you can help me from that, i am short of room i think for what you saying to do, the IC, on your picture as reference, i am unable to put it in that place, as that would be in the garden, and the way i need to go is towards the wall, if any of it makes sense, and that would be what you're saying to do, have it as close to the branch connection as possible, another thing is well, i'm not sure if i can fit a long radius bend and pipe to the branch with the slope needed, and still be close to the IC at the same time, i can fit the Y branch close to the wall and the IC, but not sure what connection to use, that would work how you said, to get the right angle... hope you can advise me.
 

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Sorry but I can't give you advice on how to bodge it, if you want to do it right then I have spent a decent amount of time thinking about your problem and offering what is (in my opinion) the solution.
You want to add a new w.c. upstairs, there are no short cuts that I know of that will work and pass regulations.
It's a pain in the rear, but to do it properly isn't simple and requires a decent amount of digging up to get right.
If you don't want to do it that way you could always look at getting a saniflow which can probably branch into your existing soil in the hole you've already dug out. You have to be careful what you put down the loo when you have a saniflow and there's some noise after the flush when it's doing its thing but the waste plumbing is a LOT simpler.
We have a resident saniflow guy who should be able to help if you go that route.
 

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