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Discuss Can I fit a pan connector from toilet to sani in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi all

I’ve got a sani that is boxed in and can’t come forward anymore and the toilet can’t go back anymore due to the boxing in.

I have a 20mm gap approx between sani and pan. Could I use a pan connector to connect them both ?

Thanks
 
Hi all

I’ve got a sani that is boxed in and can’t come forward anymore and the toilet can’t go back anymore due to the boxing in.

I have a 20mm gap approx between sani and pan. Could I use a pan connector to connect them both ?

Thanks
In theroy Yes.
 
Sounds like it's all getting a bit tight back there. If you're doing work then please give due consideration to access to clear blockages in the sani. You'll be glad of it in the long-term.
 
Hi all

I have a 20mm gap approx between sani and pan. Could I use a pan connector to connect them both ?

Thanks
I would say that this means without, as he is asking if he can use one. If he already had one he would have cut it down or purchased a longer one. (That is only my interpretation of course)
 
I would say that this means without, as he is asking if he can use one. If he already had one he would have cut it down or purchased a longer one. (That is only my interpretation of course)

Probably does mean without one, in which case the smaller rigid connector might work better. I was thinking if I remember rightly that a rigid one would be better as the sani connection could be held in by a jubilee clip?
 
So what I’ve got is the sani pan connector from the sani into a mcalpine pan connector onto the toilet. Which is not leaking but would rather just one piece
 
So what I’ve got is the sani pan connector from the sani into a mcalpine pan connector onto the toilet. Which is not leaking but would rather just one piece
I believe that you have to use the Sani pan connector even if you use an extension piece. @rpm over to you.
 
So what I’ve got is the RUBBER sani pan connector from the sani ON to a mcalpine pan connector (HELD WITH JUBILEE CLIP), onto the toilet. Which is not leaking but would rather just one piece

If what you have is what I have edited in capitals and you are not happy with it then you need to move either the pan or the sani.
Please note there is a maximum distance allowence between pan & pump.
 
Next question is that the pump is not flushing away when I flush the toilet. It will only pump away when I switch it off and then turn it back on at Mains ?! Any idea
 
Next question is that the pump is not flushing away when I flush the toilet. It will only pump away when I switch it off and then turn it back on at Mains ?! Any idea

Loads!
As above Brand new, brought off fleabay or elsewhere, how much did you pay for it, has it every worked properly, which model, what is connected to it, distance between pan outlet spigot and pump and finally is outlet vertical or horizontal piped and in what size pipe?
 
Loads!
As above Brand new, brought off fleabay or elsewhere, how much did you pay for it, has it every worked properly, which model, what is connected to it, distance between pan outlet spigot and pump and finally is outlet vertical or horizontal piped and in what size pipe?

Yes it’s a brand new pump that replaced the old one like for like.
The pump was purchased from screwfix and is a
TURBOFLUSH MACERATOR
550W 240V.

I used the same pipework that was already in place. It runs into a 40mm pipework into the wall.

I am going to check how far the run is as I know this model will only pump 3 meter vertical.

3AB4F518-0420-4136-BECF-8A1C845E5B5D.jpeg


F49EE732-9F74-4E2E-9DAB-32A918DCEF99.jpeg
 
Ah the dreaded Turboflush! Now this is going to sound really daft but if the end of the wires had what looks like metal lugs on the end then cut them off, bare back the insulation, twist the bare wires (as you would when wiring a plug) and then rewire into the switched spur you have there.
 
Ah the dreaded Turboflush! Now this is going to sound really daft but if the end of the wires had what looks like metal lugs on the end then cut them off, bare back the insulation, twist the bare wires (as you would when wiring a plug) and then rewire into the switched spur you have there.

Thanks for your replies!
Yes they did have metal lugs which I thought were to keep all the strands together clean. Could this be my issue then ? And was I meant to strip them I didn’t see anything in the booklet.
I have had to leave site to attend another job but will try this tomorrow or Monday
 
No you weren't told to strip the wires back and even though it makes no sense it can work.

Another possibility is that water is being syphoned out when the motor stops so water level is low which doesn't help.

When you go back flush the toilet and wait until the cistern refills then if it hasn't burst into life give the left hand side of the tank a gentle kick. If it starts then call the warranty guys in.
 
No you weren't told to strip the wires back and even though it makes no sense it can work.

Another possibility is that water is being syphoned out when the motor stops so water level is low which doesn't help.

When you go back flush the toilet and wait until the cistern refills then if it hasn't burst into life give the left hand side of the tank a gentle kick. If it starts then call the warranty guys in.
That’s some awesome knowledge mate
 
I’m planning on visiting tomorrow so will update :D

Thanks for the photos they made life easier.
One thing though, the discharge elbow is rubber as is the Grey connecter you used to join it to the solvent weld pipe, did you use a short length of pipe inbetween, rubber on rubber isn`t a good joint.
 
Thanks for the photos they made life easier.
One thing though, the discharge elbow is rubber as is the Grey connecter you used to join it to the solvent weld pipe, did you use a short length of pipe inbetween, rubber on rubber isn`t a good joint.
Yes so the discharge elbow and grey coupling have a piece of 30mm pipe inside to ensure jubilee clips can be nice and tight.
 

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