Search the forum,

Discuss Balancing problems with Honeywell TRV's in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

dbharrison

I have recently fitted Honeywell VT117E TRV's on all my radiators except one (same room as room thermostat). After fitting I found I had a balancing problem as one of the rads did not get hot (unless all other rads were turned off and then it got propperly hot)). The TRV's have a built in balancing screw and I tried to use this to reduce the flow to each of the rest of the radiators and force it into the problem rad. This did not seem to be effective at all and I could see that even with the balancing screws set to the 'fully closed' position there seemed to be considerable flow through each of the TRV's.
Has anyone else had similar problems or am I doing something wrong here?
 
you normally balance using the lock sheilds on the return, is this possible?

take of all trv heads so fully open and run heating, balance each rad with LS, then replace all heads. Should only turn off when satisfied.

I have had a problem with some trvS IN THE PAST, some have a limiting piece of plastic internally, just flick it out, some just too sensitive! had to back of the thread to allow to open!

hope some of tis helps, let me know how you go on dbharrion
 
Thanks Fuzzy
Problem for me was that the valves on the rads (non TRV) were a bit of a mixed bunch and I could not tell which were Lockshield and which were on/off types. I have now gone round and replaced all the non TRV valves with Lockshield. The non-working rad now does work but I have found that I need to close all the other rads almost right down (about 1 turn open on the Lockshields) to get enough flow through it. Something has changed since putting in TRV's but I am not sure what
 
>mixed bunch and I could not tell which were Lockshield and which were on/off types

their is no difference between a lockshield and a wheelhead valve only the plastic cap.

>(about 1 turn open on the Lockshields)

thats all you need, a fully open valve is only about two turns any more after that and it doesn't restrict the bore if you look down a valve.

their is useally aprox 11 degrees difference between your flow pipe and return.
 
11 degrees flow return differential on a non condensing system and 15 degrees difference on each rad

make sure you have 20 degrees minimum on a condensing system!!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Balancing problems with Honeywell TRV's in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi all I'm hoping someone can shine a light on this for me Since our stop tap on the pavement has now been filled with sand for whatever reason, we are relying on our property fitted stopcock (this is outside on our garage wall) Unfortunately turning this to the closed position only reduces...
Replies
3
Views
174
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
255
Hi All I have a leak coming from within my Mira Elite QT shower. It seems to be flowing from behind the switching Control. Any ideas what could be causing this leak. Already Changed the Pump Elbow as one of the clips had popped which was causing a second small leak, Any idea? Is it time to buy...
Replies
0
Views
207
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock