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Discuss Availability of end feed cross fitting in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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MarkR

Hi All,

First post but I've been reading a few threads on here and love the honest, and sometimes much needed, blunt advice. I hope you can advise...

First off I'm not a plumber (I know, I know) but need to reroute some existing copper water pipes (currently a mixture of 15mm cold and a short run of 22mm hot with reducers at either end) in my mum's upstairs bathroom so (hopefully) the plasterer can start on the room. I can't get the skirting boards off without moving the pipes first.

In planning how to neatly change the existing pipes I am thinking of using an end feed cross but while they exist on the internet (Googling 'copper end feed cross') none of the regular DIY places stock them (I've checked Screwfix, Wickes, B&Q). Maybe I'm searching for the wrong phrase?

I fine it odd that they exist but aren't easy to purchase. Is there something wrong with using them? Perhaps issues with flow?

BTW: If anyone would like to take a gander at the job here's a picture: https://goo.gl/yb1bxF. Note: This job started with the phrase "son I need the bath taps changing and hmm, the (cast iron) bath looks a bit yellow" :smile5:. The cross is needed to take the incoming cold feed and split into three (one off to go through the wall in the corner to the existing and separate upstairs toilet; one to go straight on to the eventual bath tap; and one to carry on the supply to a downstairs shower room).

Any comments on whether this is not a DIY job etc. are welcome too. I can twist a pipeslice and solder leak free end feed - that's my only qualifications in plumbing.
 
I would like to hope your soldering lasts. Experience and training by a proper plumber is what is needed usually.
I can't see why you would need a cross fitting. I have never needed one. Just use extra tee
 
I would like to hope your soldering lasts. Experience and training by a proper plumber is what is needed usually.

I agree. To cap off the existing bath and basin during the work I decided to use copper caps rather than speedfit etc. - just as a bit of extra practice albeit throwaway work. Not the neatest job but it's not leaking. https://goo.gl/GCeD0S

I use a pipeslice rather than a hacksaw, clean the ends, flux the join evenly, heat slowly and test the solder until up to temp, apply solder until I see in run round and fill the join. It probably does take a trained eye to know a joint is properly soldered rather than turning on the flow, crossing fingers, and ready to dash back to the stopcock.
 
As above, they are not around because we never use them.

Lift floor boards cut joists almost all the way through, then replace all existing surface run pipes in 15mm Plastic push fit pipe under the floor coming up only to feed the new bathroom fittings, just like every other DIY'er.

(only joking, drill the joists don't cut them)
 
they are not around because we never use them.

Good to know. Thanks.


As above, they are not around because we never use them.

Lift floor boards cut joists almost all the way through, then replace all existing surface run pipes in 15mm Plastic push fit pipe under the floor coming up only to feed the new bathroom fittings, just like every other DIY'er.

(only joking, drill the joists don't cut them)

I swear all copper and soldered :smile5: - I don’t want to face pulling the bath out and lifting floorboards in a few weeks. Even to tighten a metal compression fitting. I'm only going to run the copper under the floorboards where the bath isn't. Under the bath they'll pop up asap for visual checks and access to isolation values.

And I want to do a better job than the last (and he definitely was a...) plumber: https://goo.gl/F128zy - hot and cold crossing and touching and also resting nicely on the CH. Still makes the cold tap in the downstairs shower room run warm for the first minute. :rolleyes2:


Not bad at all.

Go for an extra T. Change the 22mm to 15 whilst you're at it.

Definitely. Thanks.
 
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