Search the forum,

Discuss AT RISK WATER MAIN EARTH BONDING THROUGH METER BOX BACK PLATE in the Gas Engineers Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

Messages
9
Could someone take a look at this for me please?
Just had a boiler put in our property on a grant scheme. The boiler is great other than him not cleaning the pipework including gas joints before leaving 🙁.
I've cleaned it up and it seems alright.

My other main worry though was what the follow up electrician has done in the meter box;

He's put the water mains bonding from the stop tap inside the kitchen to the main gas bonding clamp on the outlet of the meter which I think is ok (the main gas bonding is in right place),

but he's also drilled through the back plate and through the building fabric into the kitchen under the units and I'm also pretty sure it's narrow cavity wall. Can someone confirm this is "at risk" please? There's not even any sealing compound either on the hole in the box.


Does this come under?
:
The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
PART C
Reg 13.—(1) Where a meter is housed in a meter box or meter compound attached to or built into the external face of the outside wall of any premises, the meter box or meter compound shall be so constructed and installed that any gas escaping within the box or compound cannot enter the premises or any cavity in the wall but must disperse to the external air.

I just don't feel comfortable with it and thought I should give the company the chance to put it right. A new alternative hole could be drilled perhaps somewhere to the right side of the box on the same motar line and this one repaired I would have thought with a slightly longer length of earth cable to replace this one.
appreciate it thanks.
Chris.
 

Attachments

  • a1.jpg
    a1.jpg
    235.6 KB · Views: 42
  • a2.jpg
    a2.jpg
    268.2 KB · Views: 36
  • a3.jpg
    a3.jpg
    415.7 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:
Yep also it’s modifying the meter box technically as it’s not an approved hole so needs a new meter box and the earth moving externally or via an approved entry
 
really. that means a large percentage of gas meter boxes need replacing from what I see on my travels

Yep can only go through where the pipe goes as you can seal eg there’s a spigot
 
Can’t you just seal up where the cable goes through, on both skins of wall, with ct1 etc?
If not, why not?

Movement needs to have a spigot so the seal can’t fall out / debond
 
Just needs sealing with a compound that's flexible. Like silicone.

On my gas safe inspection I had a property that I took him to where the Electrician had been after I had visited - they'd drilled though the top left corner. He pulled it and said just seal it up with silicone. Only like the spigot in the rear of the gas box when sealed.
 
Just needs sealing with a compound that's flexible. Like silicone.

On my gas safe inspection I had a property that I took him to where the Electrician had been after I had visited - they'd drilled though the top left corner. He pulled it and said just seal it up with silicone. Only like the spigot in the rear of the gas box when sealed.
Excerpts from gas safe TB102 (Location of protective equipotential bonding on gas installation pipework in domestic premises), doesn’t mention just siliconing up.
 

Attachments

  • C19F4DB5-7758-425C-90D7-6AC6B0BBF3E2.jpeg
    C19F4DB5-7758-425C-90D7-6AC6B0BBF3E2.jpeg
    189.7 KB · Views: 20
  • 0AB60654-25B8-4015-AECA-D0493147D7F6.jpeg
    0AB60654-25B8-4015-AECA-D0493147D7F6.jpeg
    76.8 KB · Views: 23
Last edited by a moderator:
Excerpts from gas safe TB102, doesn’t mention just siliconing up.
Oh I agree, but at the end of the day it's been done incorrectly which i'm not disputing. But it's been done, and logically it isn't feasible to easily replace the meter box. Sealing the hole up so that it becomes air tight I think is acceptable, and seems that so of a Gas Safe inspector too.
 
Oh I agree, but at the end of the day it's been done incorrectly which i'm not disputing. But it's been done, and logically it isn't feasible to easily replace the meter box. Sealing the hole up so that it becomes air tight I think is acceptable, and seems that so of a Gas Safe inspector too.

2 hours maximum to change the meter box aslong as you have met1 (technically you can do it without but it’s a grey area)
 
Excerpts from gas safe TB102 (Location of protective equipotential bonding on gas installation pipework in domestic premises), doesn’t mention just siliconing up.
Your reference is to a built-in meter box whereas the OP's is surface mounted. I'm not a gas installer myself, but logic would dictate that if the hole in the wall is filled in, any potential leak will be to the outside air - which shouldn't be an issue as the box itself is not designed to be airtight. Had it been a box built into a wall, I'd understand if it's a different kettle of fish.
 
The first set of bs are correct even if it’s a surface meter box as there is a path to the cavity and not approved Method
 
The first set of bs are correct even if it’s a surface meter box as there is a path to the cavity and not approved Method
Read what I said again please - if the hole in the wall is filled in.

Obviously the cable needs re-routing first and I'm not arguing otherwise. Would you, speaking seriously, replace the entire meter box to remedy a small hole in the back that could be patched up? Reason I ask is many gas boxes of a certain age have damaged doors or rodent damage and landlord's certificate inspections don't seem to care too much, which I assumed was because there wasn't a path to the inside. Is this wrong?

Irrelevant - wrong pieces of info
Who's info is irrelevant?
 
Last edited:
Read what I said again please - if the hole in the wall is filled in.

Obviously the cable needs re-routing first and I'm not arguing otherwise. Would you, speaking seriously, replace the entire meter box to remedy a small hole in the back that could be patched up? Reason I ask is many gas boxes of a certain age have damaged doors or rodent damage and landlord's certificate inspections don't seem to care too much, which I assumed was because there wasn't a path to the inside. Is this wrong?


Who's info is irrelevant?

Yes no different to the gas pipe not being sealed the spigot / manufacturer holes are there for a reason

Can you guarantee that hold will stay sealed / tight to the cavity just by putting a blob on it
 
A broken door - if there’s gas escape, chances of entering the building are slim.

A siliconed hole - whereby the hole into the fabric of the building won’t necessarily be sealed - chances are more likely (a risk).
 
A broken door - if there’s gas escape, chances of entering the building are slim.

A siliconed hole - whereby the hole into the fabric of the building won’t necessarily be sealed - chances are more likely (a risk).
Only similar to the material used to seal the pipe to the box coming away - and it happens when they've used putty.
 
Yes no different to the gas pipe not being sealed the spigot / manufacturer holes are there for a reason

Can you guarantee that hold will stay sealed / tight to the cavity just by putting a blob on it
Hiu Shaun,

I agree with your point: a blob would be a bodge and a proper repair would be more laborious.

However, if the wall were mortared up AND the hole in the plastic repaired using Araldite (or better still actually glue a patch over the hole), I think it's guaranteed no gas will escape to the cavity. As an RGI, would you be happy with this or is it still a no no?
 
Assuming it's outside the box, and it's going straight across the cavity, I'd be interested to know whether electrical regulations strictly require a sleeve? If not, then I'd suggest any common sense material (offcut of pipe or hose) would do as they would class as a cable installation aid.
 
Assuming it's outside the box, and it's going straight across the cavity, I'd be interested to know whether electrical regulations strictly require a sleeve? If not, then I'd suggest any common sense material (offcut of pipe or hose) would do as they would class as a cable installation aid.
right thanks, just with it being probably near the meter installation thought it would be for the best. cemented in place and with a good bit of non setting compound perhaps in the end. they suggested 20mm conduit on the electrician forum
 
20mm conduit or a bit of 15mm copper either acceptable
Thanks Shaun.

Today the company have replied to a recent initial email I sent with the photos saying:

"Hi,I have returned from annual leave this morning , I will investigate this and get back to you when I have more information. Are you happy for us to seal the wire? Thank you"

I havent replied with an alternative yet. Just wanted to formulate the best counter suggestion.

Cheers
 
I wouldn’t want them to as they wouldn’t be able to guarantee it also you might have a service later on and someone flags it up
 
Yep also it’s modifying the meter box technically as it’s not an approved hole so needs a new meter box and the earth moving externally or via an approved entry
I found this thread on the Electricians forum, I was not aware us sparks could not drill a hole in the meter box, but now I know, it makes sense. Maybe I'm the only spark that does not know this, but I doubt it. There is nothing in our regs, and we are the ones fitting the bonding, so the IET should include this in our regs so we don't continue to do this. But as commented previously, there must be loads of boxes that do not comply. Replacing the whole box seems over the top if this is the only non compliance.
Looking at the regs snip, it seems to me that the requirement is to make the rear part of the box air tight. I'm thinking a Wylex Membrane Cable Entry gland should be sufficient. I know the Wiska membrane glands are IP66, I assume Wylex will be the same. So this could be an easy fix ?
 
Problem is it has to be tested to be air tight tbh these days I don’t know why there isn’t a m20 threaded hole so you could put a gland in it etc
 
Problem is it has to be tested to be air tight tbh these days I don’t know why there isn’t a m20 threaded hole so you could put a gland in it etc
Yeah I agree, it’s all about proof.

M20 thread Sounds like the perfect solution.

I was just thinking we could just drill and use compression gland, but often the spark arrives after all done, so we could not get a nut on.

Although most import thing is education.
 

Reply to AT RISK WATER MAIN EARTH BONDING THROUGH METER BOX BACK PLATE in the Gas Engineers Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
300
Hi all I'm hoping someone can shine a light on this for me Since our stop tap on the pavement has now been filled with sand for whatever reason, we are relying on our property fitted stopcock (this is outside on our garage wall) Unfortunately turning this to the closed position only reduces...
Replies
3
Views
228
Our kitchen mixer tap has started dripping. Like so much of the plumbing in our almost new build bungalow, it is lacking! The plumber didn't install any isolating cocks in the H&C feed to the tap so how can I identify which of the valves is passing? Shut the whole H&C water system down?
Replies
12
Views
291
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock