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I really would appreciate some advise please..

If our boiler is on then our radiators are on, even with the thermostat off. The separate control panel which controls heating and water is off too. This is an ongoing issue.....

We called out a heating engineer previously, and he replaced a valve in our airing cupboard, a circuit board in our boiler (as it would not fire up after switching it off as we were boiling hot!) and put in a replacement thermostat. That work cost us £414.00 and we paid on completion of the work immediately.

We now have a fully working boiler, but the heating still remains on regardless.

We have called the plumber several times and he has given us assurances he will come back...it’s been 3 weeks and several calls.

I’m now wondering if we should cut our losses as it may be another issue entirely and to be honest, I don’t want to be hit with another bill on the spot for more work from him, as I’d have no clue if it was genuine or not.

I was originally wondering if the thermostat is not working, but there are 2 valves in our airing cupboard so it could be an issue with the other, which would mean that this is not a recall for the plumber we have already used.

I literally have no clue what to do....cut my losses and get a new plumber out, or insist the original chap comes back, with no clue if he has infact been fair.

It’s seriously doing my head in..would anyone be able to either give me a clue about what this fault may be, or point me in the direction of the best course of action to take?

Many thanks in advance
 
It's not entirely clear what the problem is from your description but if the stat and or the controller aren't working properly they maybe faulty.

Could you take pictures of the entire system...boiler, valves that were "fixed", controller and stat and describe again how you try to control your system and what doesn't seem to work.
 
Depends on what you mean by 2 valves? I’m assuming motorised valve and not gate. If it’s the motorised valve he may have only replaced the head,in which case if it’s the spindle that’s sticking then changing a head on a motorised valve will not work. As gmartine has said any photos, especially airing cupboard would help us better. Also i would try contacting your plumber again and ask h8mif he would mind coming back to sort, if he’s decent enough he should do.
 
I really would appreciate some advise please..

If our boiler is on then our radiators are on, even with the thermostat off. The separate control panel which controls heating and water is off too. This is an ongoing issue...

We called out a heating engineer previously, and he replaced a valve in our airing cupboard, a circuit board in our boiler (as it would not fire up after switching it off as we were boiling hot!) and put in a replacement thermostat. That work cost us £414.00 and we paid on completion of the work immediately.

We now have a fully working boiler, but the heating still remains on regardless.

We have called the plumber several times and he has given us assurances he will come back...it’s been 3 weeks and several calls.

I’m now wondering if we should cut our losses as it may be another issue entirely and to be honest, I don’t want to be hit with another bill on the spot for more work from him, as I’d have no clue if it was genuine or not.

I was originally wondering if the thermostat is not working, but there are 2 valves in our airing cupboard so it could be an issue with the other, which would mean that this is not a recall for the plumber we have already used.

I literally have no clue what to do....cut my losses and get a new plumber out, or insist the original chap comes back, with no clue if he has infact been fair.

It’s seriously doing my head in..would anyone be able to either give me a clue about what this fault may be, or point me in the direction of the best course of action to take?

Many thanks in advance

Get 2 ports checked properly

Also if it is an on going issue and all you've ever known it could be a pipework problem, which would be very costly to rectify if its in the floor.

Most engineers give free quotes or charge a reasonable first hour to diagnose try someone else, get a fresh pair of eyes on it incase he may of missed something

Best option to have comfortable tempature, if it is a pipework issue, set hw up on times on programmer e.g early morning late at night. and use the immersion during the day if needed.
 
Taking it that the system worked correctly in the first place & that you instructed the first guy to sort out the problem with the heating coming on by itself. Then why would not insist that he comes back to complete the repair you have paid for at no cost ? The boiler repair is a separate repair by the sounds of it.
Any one who understands heating controls should have been able to work out if the problem was with the zone valve or the thermostat or indeed else where on the system.

Again taking it that you have two motorised (zone) valves & that they have silver heads, you should be able to work out which is the one for the rad's. When you have the problem with the rads getting hot go & check if the valve is hot & also if the little lever on the side is loose, can move freely from side to side (open) or very stiff with little movement (closed).
 
Thank you for your replies. I have taken a photo of the valve...that is the new one, the old one is the same. Sorry, I’m literally clueless as to what to look for with regard to heads..
It’s an ongoing issue in the sense the plumber hasn’t solved it, however our heating has always worked perfectly previously.
Unfortunately, I don’t think he’s a decent chap...several calls and reassurances of him checking and calling us back with a date....and nothing each time. Still not heard after reassurances he’d be back early this week.
I don’t think we can insist on him coming back to fix it free of charge as he has completed work for us. Admittedly that has not solved the issue, but surely he’d argue that we’ve paid for replacement parts and his time...just those parts are not the right ones? Trial and error? Or am I being too reasonable..I’m certainly not the sort of person that can argue with confidence in this field.

I’m really struggling to fine anyone who will look at this for us, but I think I need to get someone else out, as I’ve lost confidence in this chap. If anyone on here is local to Exeter, I’d love to hear from you as it seems that reliable and available heating engineers are in short supply

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Hi,

Thanks for the photo, so the white/grey plastic bit, that’s the head, which is what the photo is of. Unable to see from there if whole valve has been changed. I couldn’t be further from Exeter, but maybe someone else is closer? Still sounds like it’s zone valve related. Do you have a combi boiler or regular boiler? I have known engineers to link out the other faulty valve if on a combi system.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It’s seriously doing my head in..would anyone be able to either give me a clue about what this fault may be, or point me in the direction of the best course of action to take?

Many thanks in advance
Is it a new problem on a system which has been OK in the past, or is it new build/just moved in or what? If the latter, it could be piped wrong. Sounds like you have zone valves for heating and hot water. The heating return pipes must be commoned before connecting to the cylinder return. If not you will have the problem you're seeing.
 
Thanks so much for your replies. I feel like I’m getting some knowledge on what the issue is then..
Never had any problems and the house is 10 years old...literally had the issue start a while ago.
We have a system boiler...boiler in the kitchen, with a tank in the airing cupboard...not the old style lagged tank though. I think that’s what it’s called lol.
There are two valves in the airing cupboard exactly the same as photographed...
@chris watkins I will certainly check the valve when the heating is on...what does it mean if the lever is loose or stiff, would that diagnose a faulty valve one way or the other.
Sorry for so many questions, but it is helping so much.
Great to know there are some really honest and genuine tradespeople out there.
If I can get a definite diagnosis it will mean I may be able to actually sound what I’m talking about when I contact this chap again....
 
Hi Sheri,

If the lever is stiff (usually no call for heat) then it should be in working order as it’s a spring return, which gives the resistance felt. If it’s loose, when calling for heat then again it’s as it should be. The trouble is if it’s making a contact with the microswitch inside, then it’s calling for heat unnecessarily. He could have wired it up wrong.
 

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