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Discuss 22mm Copper pipe through flat felt roof in the USA area at PlumbersForums.net

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Howdy Guys
Any ideas or suggestions for putting a copper pipe through a felt roof? I have to run a gas pipe up through the garage roof. Through the roof is the shortest, cleanest solution. But, I'm not sure how to seal it well, if indeed its possible. Any suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks!
 
Howdy Guys
Any ideas or suggestions for putting a copper pipe through a felt roof? I have to run a gas pipe up through the garage roof. Through the roof is the shortest, cleanest solution. But, I'm not sure how to seal it well, if indeed its possible. Any suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks!

Hello BigTHoldstock,

Here is a link to a Dektite Roof flashing for sealing roof penetrations for small bore pipes:


Although this is being shown for use on a Tiled / Slate Roof it is flat and could be used on a Flat Roof and it is bendable if you wanted to bend it up the wall - however You would need to penetrate the roof far away enough from the Building wall to be able to seal the base of the flashing to the flat roof / wall.

Depending on what the Flat Roof surface is [E.G. Roofing Felt] You should be able to seal / adhere the base of the Flashing to it using Flashband - Aluminium faced bitumen flashing as a Tape sealing around the base plate - it needs a primer applied to the Felt of the Roof before applying it.

I have done this a few times including to seal / adhere an aluminium Flat Roof Flashing for a 250mm Commercial Boiler Flue although I had intended this to be just a temporary measure when my Client contacted a Roofing Company to make a more permanent repair to the roof they stated that they could not better what I had done.

In the past I have heated up the Flashband flashing to make it stick better using a Blow torch to apply but when I was looking at the product online to recommend it to You / get the links that I included the surface now looks much less robust than what I have used previously ?

The Flashband that I have used for over 40 Years had a Silver metallic surface although I have not used it for the last 5 years.

If You do use it make your own judgement if it looks able to be heated - a powerful Hairdryer might also work ?

Here is a link to 225mm wide x 10 Metres long Flashband at Screwfix:


https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/bosti...ViLHtCh1SJgscEAQYAyABEgIlJvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here is 150mm wide x 10 Metres long roll:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/bostik-flashband-grey-10m-x-150mm/55009

Here is Flashband Primer:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/bostik-flashband-primer-black-500ml/57709#_=p

Here is a quick Video from Bostik / Flashband on how to install it:

View: https://youtu.be/U2xFDvhmL3g


I would also seal around the pipe using mastic and some Flashband before it fitted the Roof Flashing.

I hope that this is helpful.

Chris
 
Last edited:
I have never had much success after puncturing a flat roof. In theory it seems easy, drill hole and get plenty of black stuff around the pipe to seal. In practice the metal will expand and contract and the bitumen stuff goes brittle. centralheatking
 
It's a future disaster waiting to happen.
Presumably you're wanting to come out through the flat roof and then continue on straight up?

You need something like this, but the problem is getting a good seal onto the old felt

 
1576656588485.png
1576657887326.png

Use something like this.
Pick a dry day. Not too hot though!
Rough the mineral felt with a steel brush so it cleans it, removes dirt and loose dust and stones, for the area that the flashing will cover plus an extra 3" (this is green mineral felt I presume). Then brush it clean.
Drill the hole in the correct place and brush away loose dirt/dust/wood.
Prime the area to be covered (including the extra 3"), with Firestone RubberCover quick prime plus.
Put the pipe through the roof enough to get the flashing over it. Think about soldering distances from rubber, think about Gas pipes passing through voids etc. I know you will have but thought I would say it anyway.
Once the primer is tacky, seal around the pipe and roof with Stixall black adhesive.
Run a couple of circles of the same adhesive around the pipe hole (on the flat roof) approx an inch away from the pipe and again an inch in from the edge of where the flashing will sit.
Cut the flashing so it fits tight over the pipe (which is clean and grease free). Push it down nice and square onto the roof and press the base down well.
Prime the top edge of the flashing over 2" - 3".
Cut and stick down 'Form Flash' rubber in a neat square over the top so it overlaps onto the roof by 2" - 3" and similar onto the flashing and press it down well. That can be done in four strips or, two with a semi-circle cut out of each or one piece with a circle out, obviously this is dependent on size.
Run a nice neat bead of the black Stixall adhesive around both edges of the 'Form Flash' and the exit point of the pipe. Put the tip of the Stixall 'just inside' the rubber as you go around so it gets between the pipe and rubber.
You can use deck flashings with metal bases but with those we always screw them down and make sure the screws are sealed with Stixall beneath the head and on top before they are covered with the Form flash.

Beware, Form flash will stick as soon as it touches the primer, especially in hot weather. It is expensive stuff and great care should be taken to align things correctly before it goes down. You cannot always get it off without destroying it.
Better with two pair of hands.

The above method is the one we use mainly for flue pipes. It as never leaked and we are happy with it. I have not seen the roof you are working on but it sounds like this method will work. My advice is to go and speak to a roofing/plastics centre near you for more advice on materials which are suitable for the roof you're on. They may offer a different suggestion. They are normally very knowledgeable (for obvious reasons) and helpful.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
I have never had much success after puncturing a flat roof. In theory it seems easy, drill hole and get plenty of black stuff around the pipe to seal. In practice the metal will expand and contract and the bitumen stuff goes brittle. centralheatking


Hello centralheatingking,

What did You think of Last Plumber`s excellent description and my suggestion above ?

I know that both methods would work well as I know some of the Roof penetrations that I have made - mainly Boiler Flues - are still watertight several years after I did the above method - obviously I am not aware of the longevity of every one that I have done as I don`t see the clients any more.

Chris
 
Last edited:
Hello centralheatingking,

What did You think of Last Plumber`s excellent description and my suggestion above ?

I know that both methods would work well as I know some of the Roof penetrations that I have made - mainly Boiler Flues - are still watertight several years after I did the above method - obviously I am not aware of the longevity of every one that I have done as I don`t see the clients any more.

Chris
Last Plumber is correct and his ideas are sound my experience is old and based on bad experience
his advice is sound in my opinion centralheatking
 

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