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trouble flushing toilet

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wanttolearn

Gas Engineer
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Went to a friends house as they couldn't flush the toilet as you had to pump the lever handle.
I changed the diaphragm over and put all back together but it's still not flushing.
Is it the case of just getting and fitting a new one
20160306_114641.jpg
 
thats a 2 part, nothing wrong with it!

more likely peice of the diaphragm has lodged in basin rim somewhere.
or fill level not right
 
REDSAW said:
thats a 2 part, nothing wrong with it!

more likely peice of the diaphragm has lodged in basin rim somewhere.
or fill level not right
Click to expand...

Or pull it out and look down the tube it might be stuck there. Take it you know how to separate it.
 
I wish all toilets had a nice 2 part syphon like that! As said above^^ it should be fine.
Take the syphon apart again and check for bits of the old washer down inside the final bit of syphon where it goes towards the pan. Also check the new washer hasn't got folded and that any spring is still doing its job. I assume you have enough water level in cistern?
 
Yes. I took it all apart and couldn't see anything I thought that after changing the diaphragm it would of been able to flush as the old one was split.
I am going to replace fill valve as it's playing up too
 
Best said:
I wish all toilets had a nice 2 part syphon like that! As said above^^ it should be fine.
Take the syphon apart again and check for bits of the old washer down inside the final bit of syphon where it goes towards the pan. Also check the new washer hasn't got folded and that any spring is still doing its job. I assume you have enough water level in cistern?
Click to expand...

I would wish THE same that People agent that lazy and installuing 2 pary siphons a lot easier for THE next Service
 
Best said:
I wish all toilets had a nice 2 part syphon like that! As said above^^ it should be fine.
Take the syphon apart again and check for bits of the old washer down inside the final bit of syphon where it goes towards the pan. Also check the new washer hasn't got folded and that any spring is still doing its job. I assume you have enough water level in cistern?
Click to expand...

I would wish the same that People arent that lazy and installing 2 part siphons a lot easier for the next engineer
 
wanttolearn said:
Yes. I took it all apart and couldn't see anything I thought that after changing the diaphragm it would of been able to flush as the old one was split.
I am going to replace fill valve as it's playing up too
Click to expand...

That fill valve is Torbeck and IMO I would avoid them and replace with a Fluidmaster Pro 45 with brass tail or similar.
Check the syphon has all its seals intact and no cracks anywhere to prevent syphoning. Especially at the very top above or near to water level
 
Last edited:
Matchless.plumb said:
I would wish the same that People arent that lazy and installing 2 part siphons a lot easier for the next engineer
Click to expand...

So sensible those 2 parts! Last one I replaced the diaphragm was while I was doing another job in the house. I had exact washer (round type with square cuts outs on edges) and took me only seconds to replace that I didn't charge the customer for it. Single very sexy fit lady though.
 
Best said:
So sensible those 2 parts! Last one I replaced the diaphragm was while I was doing another job in the house. I had exact washer (round type with square cuts outs on edges) and took me only seconds to replace that I didn't charge the customer for it. Single very sexy fit lady though.
Click to expand...

Saniflo used them in the old Sanichasse, it was 6 months before I found out about the Yellow pin - Duh!
 
:D you have put it together wrong :D give me 5 will get a pic

so simple, but if you put it in wrong order it doesnt work

20160306_114641.jpg
 
Last edited:
pics up :)

note you will have to take the siphon out again as you need to remove the c link (attaches to flush arm)
 
Last edited:
Oh really. Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this much appreciated. I will put it right tomorrow
 
btw i mean the blue plastic washer and rubber washer needs to go under the lip (lines a bit close to the yellow pin and dont want to confuse you) any problems come back and will do a step by step pic set for you,

and another vote for the Fluidmaster Pro 45 with brass shank
 
Last edited:
REDSAW said:
is the plug on the bell in the hole for max flush?
Click to expand...

3/4 flush but on the new ones its just plastic and you have to drill/open the hole up
 
ShaunCorbs said:
btw i mean the blue plastic washer and rubber washer needs to go under the lip (lines a bit close to the yellow pin and dont want to confuse you) any problems come back and will do a step by step pic set for you,

and another vote for the Fluidmaster Pro 45 with brass shank
Click to expand...

Great cheers for the help and good spotting by the way. Will get it sorted thanks again
 
wanttolearn said:
Yes. I took it all apart and couldn't see anything I thought that after changing the diaphragm it would of been able to flush as the old one was split.
I am going to replace fill valve as it's playing up too
Click to expand...

might be wrong but will a fluidmaster (as suggested by 'best') fit, seem to remember it touches the side of the cistern or syphon stopping it closing,I would play safe and get a conventional bottom entry ballvalve with a telescopic arm to attach the float ( city plumbing or travis perkins)

AM I RIGHT OTHER MEMBERS, if the syphon was the other way round a fluidmaster would fit comfortably,mabe thats why they fitted a torbeck.
 
might be wrong but will a fluidmaster (as suggested by 'best') fit, seem to remember it touches the side of the cistern or syphon stopping it closing,I would play safe and get a conventional bottom entry ballvalve with a telescopic arm to attach the float ( city plumbing or travis perkins)

AM I RIGHT OTHER MEMBERS, if the syphon was the other way round a fluidmaster would fit comfortably,maybe thats why they fitted a torbeck.
 
itcanbesoeasy said:
might be wrong but will a fluidmaster (as suggested by 'best') fit, seem to remember it touches the side of the cistern or syphon stopping it closing,I would play safe and get a conventional bottom entry ballvalve with a telescopic arm to attach the float ( city plumbing or travis perkins)

AM I RIGHT OTHER MEMBERS, if the syphon was the other way round a fluidmaster would fit comfortably,maybe thats why they fitted a torbeck.
Click to expand...

Sometimes the fluidmasters would hit against the cistern, but depends if the hole in base of cistern is extremely tight in the corner or not and size of cistern for syphon distance etc.
All the cisterns with conventional syphons that I replace fill valves have the valve to the right and nearly all suit a Fluidmaster.
The Fluidmaster has its float off centre on the riser - so can be positioned usually with the float as far as possible away from cistern wall. It is a job you have to sometimes just try the valve in position to see if it fits before thinking of using it.
You don't want to fit a conventional arm ball valve if on high mains pressure supply.
Some other equilibrium valves have a short arm like Torbecks have and are handy.
Wirquin do a valve that has a float that works in an outer case so won't matter if it touches anything.
Torbecks give trouble and most on this forum seem to avoid them now
 
Last edited:
Best said:
Sometimes the fluidmasters would hit against the cistern, but depends if the hole in base of cistern is extremely tight in the corner or not and size of cistern for syphon distance etc.
All the cisterns with conventional syphons that I replace fill valves have the valve to the right and nearly all suit a Fluidmaster.
The Fluidmaster has its float off centre on the riser - so can be positioned usually with the float as far as possible away from cistern wall. It is a job you have to sometimes just try the valve in position to see if it fits before thinking of using it.
You don't want to fit a conventional arm ball valve if on high mains pressure supply.
Some other equilibrium valves have a short arm like Torbecks have and are handy.
Wirquin do a valve that has a float that works in an outer case so won't matter if it touches anything.
Torbecks give trouble and most on this forum seem to avoid them now
Click to expand...

Totally agree about torbecks
 
I agree with the opella torbecks total garbage ! However started to use the Dudley hydro flow
Which I was quite impressed with the quality of these torbecks.
I do only use when I cannot get a pro 45b in cistern
 
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