Pipes successfully installed, only took about an hour. The old pipes the sockets were separate to the length of pipe, water had got in and split the socket. The new stuff seemed to be cast as one.
No blockages so unsure why 2 sections split right up the side.
Hi, I'm one of the "older" plumbers on the forum and being more mature in years has given me the knowledge in how to install lead and cast iron as well as the now widely used modern alternatives. I have had the best of both worlds, with the old and the new.
I was most interested in your post.
There are a few reasons why most cast iron pipe work splits. Cast iron being a metal, corrodes from the inside out, much in the same way that central heating radiators do, because they are not painted on the inside. They have little internal protection. Cast iron has a variable thickness and one side of a pipe, may be marginally thicker or thinner than the other side. If for example rainwater is regularly concentrating its flow on the one side or seam of the pipe, then this is where corrosion is most likely to take place, resulting in a split.
Pipes which have a face touching the wall, especially a stone wall will attract dampness and corrode quicker on that face. This is often because of driving drain being blown against the building.
Cast iron is still a very durable and long lasting pipe material. Here in Scotland, many local authorities specifically specify that the first length of any stack or downpipe at ground level has to be cast iron pipe. This is to prevent breakages, that otherwise may occur with plastic pipe being at ground level, especially in busy street areas.
As part of your annual maintenance schedule, it's important that your cast iron pipes are wire brushed of flaking paint/and or rust and are given two coats of a good quality external black paint. If you maintain this schedule, then cast iron pipes will last for a great many years.