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Discuss Wall hung toilet in brick work with rear soil pipe in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi,

First post (be gentle!) I joined looking for advice and hope someone can help!

I’m looking to get a wall hung toilet but have a couple of issuers. The wall is breeze block (3 inch thick) then a cavity before the external wall. The cavity is about 4-6 inches in size from what I can tell.

I thought it was a non-starter because the breeze block wasn’t thick enough to channel out a space for the frame but the builder has said just to put in a lintel and cut away the breeze block all together with timer side supports to screw the frame into.

The second issue I have is that the old toilet has a rear soil pipe but all the frames I’ve seen seem to have a 90 elbow going into a soil pipe that’s on the ground. Is it possible to get fittings for the toilet to connect into a rear soil pipe (this feels like a daft question but want to check before buying).

Also, the house is old, I’m not sure what the soil pipe is made of, it feels like metal, maybe cast iron? Definitely not plastic. Any ideas of what it could be made of and is it likely to be able to cut it back if need be to connect to toilet?

Any information would be much appreciated!

Thanks
 
Sounds like a daft idea to me.

However, yes you can get straight connectors to use in place of the elbow one that is supplied.

The soil pipe is most likely either plastic/cast iron/cement fibre or asbestos. Yours is probably cast iron by the sound of it - yes you an cut it.
 
Hi OOMD,

I have to agree with Ben.

If you are fitting a lintel then presumably building control should be involved. Interesting what they would think of this.

Is space in the room so tight that this is the only way to fit a loo?

Can you confirm that nothing touches the brick outer skin and there is room for insulation. Also think about a cavity tray. The tank will be colder so will get loads of condensation, so I'm thinking you could get damp patch in the room below and the floor below. Is the loo upstairs? And is the floor timber?

If you still go ahead ask for pics of previous install, and conf of building control cert.

Hmmm if it's a period property, why not old fashioned flush box high on the wall to save the space? Nice chrome down pipe of course.

Cheers,

Roy (Amateur all trades)
 
Hi OOMD,

I have to agree with Ben.

If you are fitting a lintel then presumably building control should be involved. Interesting what they would think of this.

Is space in the room so tight that this is the only way to fit a loo?

Can you confirm that nothing touches the brick outer skin and there is room for insulation. Also think about a cavity tray. The tank will be colder so will get loads of condensation, so I'm thinking you could get damp patch in the room below and the floor below. Is the loo upstairs? And is the floor timber?

If you still go ahead ask for pics of previous install, and conf of building control cert.

Hmmm if it's a period property, why not old fashioned flush box high on the wall to save the space? Nice chrome down pipe of course.

Cheers,

Roy (Amateur all trades)


Cheers Roy (and Ben),

The room is 1.8x2.2m so there is space for a normal closed-coupled toilet, I had my heart set on a wall hung toilet but my partner doesn't fancy boxing it in so I was looking for a way to get it behind the wall.

The toilet is upstairs and on a timber floor.

It sounds like this is more hassle than it's worth in all honesty, I don't want to run the risk of dampness.

Think I'll just need to accept wall hung toilet isn't the way forward!


Cheers for your help guys, much appreciated!
 
Don’t give up!

Box and tile the frame ( use 12 mm hardiebacker), this can be full height and width of wall then it won’t show at all - will take out 160mm though. However you can use this to your advantage by having tiled niches and or recessed mirror cabinets (depending on whether this wall has shower or basin on it).

Do this all the time and tell your partner it’s great!
 
Don’t give up!

Box and tile the frame ( use 12 mm hardiebacker), this can be full height and width of wall then it won’t show at all - will take out 160mm though. However you can use this to your advantage by having tiled niches and or recessed mirror cabinets (depending on whether this wall has shower or basin on it).

Do this all the time and tell your partner it’s great!

Cheers mate, that sounds like a decent compromise! Will look into it as recessed shelves is something we both like.

Thanks
 
Cheers Roy (and Ben),

The room is 1.8x2.2m so there is space for a normal closed-coupled toilet, I had my heart set on a wall hung toilet but my partner doesn't fancy boxing it in so I was looking for a way to get it behind the wall.

The toilet is upstairs and on a timber floor.

It sounds like this is more hassle than it's worth in all honesty, I don't want to run the risk of dampness.

Think I'll just need to accept wall hung toilet isn't the way forward!


Cheers for your help guys, much appreciated!
Not sure why you don't like the boxing in, as in the wall it would have been boxed in. If it were mine I'd have a removable cover over the top, although you can do some maintenance by removing the controls plate. Myself I'm also thinking about removable covering at the front e.g. nice T&G that to you could remove from each side to get some access. Will be a few years away yet though LOL if I ever have budget. For the floor you can put timber across that to provide more strength.

Cheers,

Roy.
 
Roy, with a geberit frame wall hung toilet there is no point having a removable top panel as it would not give you access to anything!
All maintenance can be carried out through the flush plate hole- any other potential problems require removal of the pan.
 
Those skinny little ones for cls studwork? But harder to get things in and out of for maintenance I think, and if you drop something in you can forget it too deep and thin to retrieve from!
Be more like 110 anyway by time you got hardie and tiles on it.
 
Roy, with a geberit frame wall hung toilet there is no point having a removable top panel as it would not give you access to anything!
All maintenance can be carried out through the flush plate hole- any other potential problems require removal of the pan.
Many thanks Ben. Are they all the same in that respect? Agree with ones I've seen. I've just got a thing about tiles, and they are not good for horizontal surfaces. If you have a nice hardwood cover then it provides sone resilience(?) when you put stuff down (or drop that glasd) on it. I still think I personally prefer a good fitting cover so you have inspection for leaks, condensation problems etc. Etc. I'm just thinking out loud here so open to education on this. I need to actually do one, so what kit to choose is interesting point.

Cheers,

Roy
 
Unsure if they are all the same Roy, I have for dozens and dozens of the geberit with no problems so I stick to that. In this game it is often better for both installer and customer if we can steer them towards products we know/trust and are familiar. As long as it achieves what they want; don’t think I’m not open to change or new products - but they have to prove their worth!
 
Unsure if they are all the same Roy, I have for dozens and dozens of the geberit with no problems so I stick to that. In this game it is often better for both installer and customer if we can steer them towards products we know/trust and are familiar. As long as it achieves what they want; don’t think I’m not open to change or new products - but they have to prove their worth!
Many thanks Ben, points taken. Geberit, it's now on my list.

Got some serious house repairs to be done first. Could take some time. . .

Cheers,

Roy
 

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